Assemble Huffy Single Speed Cruiser Bike

How to Assemble Huffy Single Speed Cruiser Bike

Let’s assemble your huffy adult cruiser bike first. When you are going to repair your Huffy single-speed cruiser bike there is some tips and tricks you should need to know so let’s go start.

Tools You Need

let’s get the proper tools. You’ll need scissors, a number two Phillips screwdriver, a six-millimeter metric Allen wrench and a metric wrench set, or an adjustable wrench where the jaws open at least 9/16 of an inch.

Start Assembling

Open the box and carefully remove all the contents. Remove the packaging from all the major parts. Slide the front wheel straight out from the frame while ensuring the pedal crank does not interfere with the wheel spokes.

To attach the front fender first, remove the bolt near the fork crown by using the Phillips screwdriver and the wrench.

You know the Huffy bike is one of the best beach cruiser bikes.


Remove the fork and spacer between the fork mounts then with the fork and fender pointed forward place, the fender between the fork legs.

The short end of the fender goes toward the front of the. The top of the fork fits between the two tabs on the fender.

Insert the bolt through the front tab and the front of the fork hole and then through the rear tab, add the washer and nut, tighten the bolt while raising the fender to the upper part of the tab holes.


Now for the braces, remove the mounting bolt from each side, line up the fender braces with the fork mounting tab. Insert a mounting bolt into one brace and fork mounting tab and tighten securely repeat for the other side.

Front Wheel

Now to install the front wheel remove the axle nuts and wheel retainers from the front wheel axle on both sides.

Set the wheel into the front fork, use the kickstand to hold the bikes steady.

Then installed the wheel retainers on each side, making sure each tab is in the fork tab hole, install an axle nut and tighten the nut finger tight at this time. repeat for the other side.

Center the front wheel between the fork legs, adjust the position of the wheel so that the wheel does not touch or rub against the fork or fender.

Tighten the two-axle nuts securely. Make sure the wheel can rotate freely without rubbing the fork or fender.

Start to install the rear fender by removing the mounting bolts one on each side, line up the rear fender brace holes with the frame mounting tabs.

Insert one bolt into one fender brace hole and frame mounting tab with the brace fully extended and securely tightened repeat for the other.

With the screwdriver and wrench now tighten the top fender Mount while making sure the fender is centered over the tire.

Test to ensure the wheel spins freely without touching the frame or fender, loosen the stem bolt a few turns with the Allen wrench.

Next, remove the plastic cap from the end of the handlebar stem insert the stem into the fork lock nut to the desired height while ensuring the men in the mark are hidden.

Align the stem with the front tire and securely tighten the stem bolt. Adjust the handlebar so the grips point toward the seat by loosening the handlebar clamp nut and rotating the handlebar into a comfortable riding position.

Then securely tighten the handlebar clamp nut. Now test the handlebar stamp tightness by first straddling the front wheel between your legs.


Try to turn the front wheel by turning the handlebar. The handlebar and stem should not turn without turning the front wheel.

Now test the handlebar clamp tightness, hold the bike stationary and try to move the handlebar ends up and down. The handlebar should not move within the handlebar clamp.


Now to install the seat first, place it upside down, loosen both seat clamp nuts enough so you can insert the smaller end of the seat.

Rotate the seat posts with the seat post clamp to be vertical, then tighten both nuts, evenly and equally. So, the seat post will be secure within the C clamp.

The quick-release lever should be somewhat loose with the seat tube. Hand-tightened the adjusting, not as much as possible while holding the lever.

Still, next move the quick release lever to the fully open. Point the seat forward and insert the seat posts into the seat tube.

Make sure the main in line is not showing. Position the seat post at the desired height while aligning the seat to point along with the frame and close the quick release lever by hand.

If the seat post is still loose, open the lever while holding the adjusting nut, turn the lever clockwise a bit and then close it again.

Repeat this process until the clamp is secure. So, the seat post won’t move ensure the main in line is not shown and that the lever when closed lays against the C clamp.

Then loosen the seat clamp nuts just enough so you can rotate the seat for a comfortable riding position.

Securely tighten the bolts evenly and equally so that the seat will not move.

To test the tightness of the seat clamp and the post clamp try to turn the seat side and to move the front of the seat up and down.

In both cases, the seat should not move in the seat clamp and the seat posts should not move in the seat tube clamp.


for the pedals, refer to the stickers or the engraved letters to identify the left and right pedals. Insert the left pedal into the left side of the crank arm and hand tighten counter-clockwise then finish tightening with your wrench.

Insert the right pedal into the right side of the crank arm and hand tightened clockwise, then finish tightening with your wrench.


To install the front reflector rotated on the handlebar so it points straight forward. Then snugly tighten the clamp screw.

To install the seat post reflector if equipped, rotate it so it points back then snugly tighten the clamps screw.


If your bike is equipped with other options, like a handlebar basket, or bag bell, or cup holder, please consult the owner’s manual for that assembly.

Just make sure the tires are properly inflated and you’re ready to ride. You can visit OutdoorXsports to get more biking tips and tricks.

How to Change Gears on a Bike Like a Pro

How to Change Gears on a Bike Like a Pro

Today we’re going to explain to you how to properly change your gears on your bike. Changing the gears of the bike not so hard task.

There is some tricky simple process of how you can do it properly.  In this article, we have discussed details of how you can your bike gear like a boss.

Controls Shifter

Let’s start from the top of the handlebars that you have a left and right shifter. The left controls the front derailleur and the right controls the rear derailleur.

The derailleur is the part that helps the chain move to a different position where they’re making it easier or harder to pedal with these shifters there is a thumb and index trigger.

The trigger releases to a smaller ring and the thumb trigger push to a bigger ring the same holds true for the front.

The higher the numbers are the harder it is the pedal and with the lowest numbers, the easiest is the pedal to make things simple.

For better performance, it’s important to clean the bike chain and there is a link to an article on how to clean a bike chain with household products.

For you ideally whichever number you have on the left shifter corresponds to where you should have it on the right meaning if I am on a higher number on the left, I should be at the higher numbers on the right.

For example, if you are on the three on the left shifter, you should be on five and up on the right shifter and if you are on number two you should be between two to eight.

If you are on number one you should be between one to four so in short if you are on number three you should be at the higher gears in the back if you are on two you should be in the middle and if you are on one you should be at the lower gears.

Gear Angle Changing

The main reason is you don’t cross the streams it is bad for your drivetrain on this particular gear we’re on one on the Left which is your smallest chainring on the front crank in the back.

We are number nine which is your smallest and the high gear as you can see here there’s a good angle to the chain which we do not want.

So, when you put it to the proper position right you are on three on the left which is your big chainring on the front as you can see the chain is perfectly straight which is what we want.

The opposite is true as well so if I go the big chainring in the back you can see a pretty good angle and you don’t want to do that because it’s putting too much pressure on the teeth and too much pressure on the derailleur below which you can’t see but a lot of tension on the chain.

If you have the chain in these positions, you’re putting tons of stress on the chain and the ridge

while wearing down your teeth much quicker. It’s also one of the main reasons why it may have had a broken chain.

Basically, what you’re doing is you’re playing back and forth pressure on the chain and then eventually snap.

Never change Gears Uphill

Never change gears on an uphill. If your gears are not changing with one click of the shifter then there’s the possibility that the rear derailleur hanger is bent or that the cable tension is not tight enough.

You want to keep it as straight as possible so if I’m on three I should be at the high gears in the back.

So, it’s a nine eight seven six even a five it’s fine after that it starts to getting too much of an angle when you start getting into that position you can start going down to two.

Then you can go back up to a seven eight nine your final position usually when you’re on – you could go pretty much anywhere but the idea is trying to keep it as straight as possible.

So now I’m on the big chainring in the back which is your lowest gear number one and if I press the right position where you can see the chain is back to the straight which is what you want in closing.


We hope that this article was explained well enough for you and if you want to learn more check OutdoorXsports.

if you like this article please give it a share and the like also don’t forget to bookmarks our website for more biking tips just like these thanks for reading.

Start running

Start running today: No Excuses!

If you really want to start running, you should know that this exercise will allow you to keep fit, improve your health and even get better with yourself; all this thanks to the fact that it will lead you to focus on yourself and give value to your goals.

But if your concern is that you don’t know where to start and at what pace, we will support you not only in your first steps, but also to keep the right motivation. Continue Reading

Career Spans of Professional Athletes and More

Retiring Early: Career Spans of Professional Athletes and More

When you think of a professional athlete, you might imagine a young man or woman in his or her twenties or early thirties. Careers of certain pro athletes, like basketball player Michael Jordan, can lead the public to believe that all athletes can work into their forties. He’s the exception – not the rule. It’s typical of athletic careers, or those that require you to look a certain way, like modeling, to fizzle out pretty quickly. Here are three groups of people whose careers have a very short shelf life:

1. Athletes

Professional athletes usually have a short but lucrative career of fewer than 10 years. Due to the fact that many athletes can make a lot of money in such a short amount of time, financial planning for professional athletes is a must as they navigate their post-retirement life. Getting help managing money is always a smart option for athletes, especially if they have young children, are planning on going back to school to earn an advanced degree (or saving for their children’s college tuition), or if they are planning on purchasing real estate property.

2. Dancers

Dancers – especially professional ballet dancers – are under immense pressure to perform perfectly while not gaining weight or getting injured. Many can work well into their forties, but most find their career waning in their late thirties. Unfortunately for experienced dancers, a sudden injury or subtle joint pain can spiral into a much bigger problem. Some dancers transition choose to transition into another slower-paced career before they suffer injury, but many more will choose to dance until they can no longer safely do so.

3. Models

Models, on the whole, are required to look young and maintain strict control over their appearance. This career does not bode well for anyone over the age of thirty, women who decide to have children and anyone who ages prematurely. Models, like athletes and dancers, need to think far into the future when it comes to their post-retirement career choices.

Many professional models have successfully transitioned into the world of fashion design or acting. Dancers could find fulfilling work in casting, choreography, or even opening their own dance studios. Athletes could transition to coaching or pursue an entirely new career. While the end of one career is often a bittersweet time, planning is essential for a smooth transition into retirement. And don’t forget: ending one line of work opens the door to new opportunities.